Horticulture

Horticulture

Horticulture

The Fayette County Extension Office Horticulture program provides educational training and technical assistance to our community. Our technical services include soil testing, disease diagnosis, and plant, weed, and insect identification. Cooperative Extension is the major provider of research-based information for consumers and horticulture businesses.

Gardener's Toolbox 2026

When: The following classes all begin at 6:00PM 

Where: Fayette County Extension Office, 1140 Harry Sykes Way

Advanced registration required to attend Gardener’s Toolbox classes.

The class fee MUST be paid at the time of registration or within 14 days to hold your seat. If the class fee is not paid within 14 days, your registration for the class will be cancelled.

To Register & Pay Online (by credit card): Go to the following link: https://ukyfayette.pacecommunity.net/

To Register & Pay by Mail: Make check or money order payable to Fayette County Horticulture Program. 

Mail check/money order and a list of what class(es) you are registering for to: 

Gardener’s Toolbox; Fayette County Extension Office; 1140 Harry Sykes Way; Lexington, KY 40504.

Weeds Aren’t Waste - A Beginners Guide to Foraging ~ Thursday, March 19th at 6 p.m.: The natural world offers a bounty and variety of flavors most of us have never encountered! In this intro to foraging class, you’ll learn about new foods that you can find in your backyard, rather than a grocery store. This class is perfect for those who are passionate about healthy eating, have curious palettes, and want to feel closer to nature. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Raised Bed Blueberries ~ Thursday, April 2nd at 6 p.m.: Blueberries are favorite small fruits but unfortunately our heavy Bluegrass soils are not well suited to growing them. Raised beds with tailored soil blends can provide excellent results. We will discuss basic blueberry culture and tips to succeed with raised bed production. Building beds now will allow for planting next year. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Backyard Poultry - The Joys and Sorrows ~ Tuesday, April 7th at 6 p.m.: Small backyard poultry flocks can be a rewarding hobby for families. Eggs are a tempting lure, but it is important to also understand the challenges and commitments a flock requires. We will discuss the good, the bad, and the ugly aspects of backyard chickens so you can make an informed decision. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Vegetable Garden Basics ~ Thursday, April 16th at 6 p.m.: There are many great reasons to grow some of your own food. We will teach the very basic concepts of growing vegetables. It is far easier than you might think. Those who attend the class will receive a copy of our vegetable growing guide and something to plant at home. (MUST attend class to receive these items.) **PLEASE NOTE: This class will be meeting at SOUTHERN STATES, 2570 PALUMBO DRIVE, LEXINGTON.** Cost: Free, but must register in advance through the Fayette County Extension Office. Seating is limited. 

Tomatoes ~ Tuesday, May 5th at 6 p.m.: A whole class about everyone’s favorite summer vegetable. We will discuss techniques for growing great tomatoes and how to avoid common pitfalls. There will be an emphasis on disease prevention. We will provide each class member with a tomato plant to grow at home. You must register and attend the class to receive the plant, which will be distributed at the end of class. Cost: Free – Advance registration required to attend.

SAVE THE DATE: Growing Community Vegetable Gardening Event ~ Saturday, May 9th

One of our most popular events. More details on this event will be in the April 2026 By the Yard Newsletter. 

Cost: Free - Pre-registration is NOT required to attend this event. **This event will be held at The Learning Center on Price Road, Lexington.**

Dahlias ~ Thursday, May 21st at 6 p.m.: Many people shy away from tender bulbs because of the hassle associated with digging and winter storage. This is not overly difficult, and many are affordable enough to treat as annuals. Dahlias are spectacular in bloom and come in a wide variety of colors, shapes and sizes. We will teach you to grow beautiful dahlias and send you home with an assortment for your garden. Cost: $20.00

Hydrangeas ~ Thursday, June 4th at 6 p.m.: Not to burst your bubble, but those giant pink and blue varieties tend to perform poorly in our climate. We hope to open your eyes to all the other wonderful hydrangeas that you might not know as well. And yes, we will offer some tips that may improve the odds of your being successful with the blue ones. Take home a small plant for your garden. Cost: $20.00

Begonias ~ Thursday, June 11th at 6 p.m.: Have you ever wished for a beautifully exotic, yet durable summer specimen plant for a shady spot? Begonias can provide just that. The begonia family is one of the largest and most diverse in the plant kingdom. Here we will explore the genus with an emphasis on large specimen types. From the giant angel wings to the wildly varied rhizomatous types, begonias are easily grown and make great indoor guests in the winter. Per usual, everyone will take home a plant of a unique, but easily grown variety to add to your collection. Cost: $15.00

Favorite Natives for Pollinators ~ Tuesday, June 16th at 6 p.m.: In this session we will discuss some of the better native flower choices for gardens. Planting natives for pollinators is quite popular and a great step toward protecting these valuable resources. Every great pollinator plant is not necessarily a well-behaved landscape choice. We will steer you to some pollinator favorites that also are great for gardeners. Take home a nice plant for your pollinator garden. Cost: $10.00

Sedum ~ Thursday, July 2nd at 6 p.m.: There are myriad Sedum varieties available to gardeners and they are some of the most reliable perennials. In recent years many new and improved varieties have been introduced. We will cover their culture and provide small plants for your garden. Cost: $15.00

Drought Resistant Landscape Plants ~ Thursday, July 16th at 6 p.m.: Our changing weather patterns have been trending toward drier summers with little rainfall. There are numerous landscape plants that can handle drier conditions once established. We will discuss several drought tolerant plants with an emphasis on perennial and annual flowers for sunny locations. Take home a small drought tolerant plant for your garden. Cost: $10.00

Landscaping for Insects ~ Thursday, August 13th at 6 p.m.: Are you curious about how to create landscapes that support beneficial insects, including pollinators and natural pest predators? We will discuss the latest research and key principles in backyard insect conservation, considerations for plant selection and habitat design as well as maintenance practices that encourage a healthy, balanced ecosystem. Take home another pollinator plant to add to your growing gardens. Cost: $5.00

Controlling Invasives ~ Thursday, August 27th at 6 p.m.: Non-native invasive plants like honeysuckle, wintercreeper, and ornamental pears are consuming our woodlands and farms. They have many negative impacts on native species. We will discuss the problem and management techniques to help you get the upper hand. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Herbs for Tea ~ Tuesday, September 8th at 6 p.m.: Discover how to grow and use fresh herbs to create flavorful hot and iced herbal teas at home. This class covers the best herbs for tea, simple harvesting techniques, and easy recipes for delicious blends. We will have a variety of teas for you to taste. You’ll leave with a lesser-known herb plant that’s full of flavor and, you guessed it, great for pollinators. Cost: $5.00

How to Collect and Save Seeds ~ Thursday, September 10th at 6 p.m.: Many wonderful plants can be easily grown from seed. We will discuss collecting, drying and storing seeds as well as germination protocols for some of the more challenging plants. It is truly rewarding to save and swap hard to find seeds. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Favorite Native Trees ~ Thursday, October 8th at 6 p.m.: A brief introduction to some of our more popular native trees. Selecting a tree that has potential to outlive us is a daunting task. There are so many options. We will discuss the importance of matching plants to site conditions and what conditions various species prefer. Selecting the proper plant for your site can minimize plant stress and lessen insect and disease problems. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Unique Bulbs ~ Tuesday, October 20th at 6 p.m.: There are so many wonderful flowers that can be grown from bulbs. Most are familiar with Daffodils, Tulips, and Crocus, but there is a whole world of lesser known beauties waiting to be discovered. We will discuss many varieties and provide a generous sampler for your home garden. Cost: $20.00

Foraging and Growing Mushrooms ~ Tuesday, November 10th at 6 p.m.: Learn the basics of foraging wild mushrooms safely and how to grow your own at home. This class covers identification tips, suitable growing conditions, and simple methods for cultivating popular edible varieties. You’ll gain the confidence to enjoy mushrooms as a sustainable and delicious addition to your kitchen. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

Amaryllis and Paperwhite Narcissus ~ Thursday, November 12th at 6 p.m.: Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus are popular holiday plants that make wonderful gifts. They are extremely easy to bring into bloom and often last several weeks. We will discuss the plants with an emphasis on how to rebloom amaryllis year after year. You will receive bulbs to force at home. Cost: $20.00

Favorite Garden Tools ~ Thursday, December 10th at 6 p.m.: Over the years all serious gardeners find tools and accessories that they consider indispensable. In this session I will discuss various implements, accessories, and hacks that work very well in the landscape and vegetable garden. All shovels and hoes are not created equal. Cost: Free - Advance registration required to attend.

 

Links of Interest

Diagnosis of plant diseases is one of the many ways that the University of Kentucky Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory and UK Cooperative Extension serve the citizens of Kentucky. This publication is designed to help growers collect and submit the best plant samples for an accurate diagnosis.

Gathering information

Information about the plant, planting site and symptoms can be as important as the physical plant material collected.

Key questions to ask include:

• What kind of plant is it? Indicate the variety, cultivar or whether the plant is a hybrid. If plant’s identity is unknown, sending a healthy plant (or picture of a healthy plant) for comparison may be helpful.

• What is the age of the plant or the planting date? Be as specific as possible with annual crops. A general time frame (e.g., month and year) is often sufficient for trees and shrubs, but do indicate whether the plant has been recently transplanted or is well-established. 

• What has been done to care for the crop/plant? Include information on tillage, irrigation, fertilizer and pesticides, mulches and other cultural practices.

• What is the weather history (e.g., drought, flood, hail, lightning, frost)? Also note any site disturbances, such as nearby construction, utility work, etc.

• What are the symptoms? Describe the problem. Take time to examine the entire plant and determine the specific location of symptoms on the plant. Note anything unusual that may not be visible on the physical sample. For example, check tree trunks for wounds or for mechanical injuries. Are there any mushrooms or other fungal fruiting bodies associated with tree trunk or surface roots?

• When did symptoms first appear? Did they appear suddenly or progress (worsen) gradually?

• Where are the affected plants? Indicate the type of production system (e.g., field, greenhouse, landscape, etc.). Also note the terrain involved, such as whether the problem is in a low wet area, on a dry slope, etc.

• How much of the crop/plant is affected? Is a single plant showing symptoms, or are scattered plants, group(s) of plants or the entire planting affected? Are plants of different types showing the same symptoms? Look for any patterns.

Collecting a Sample

A fresh, representative sample is critical for diagnosis.

Follow these general guidelines:

• Collect whole plant samples when possible, including roots.

• Always dig plants to keep root systems intact and soil in place around the roots. Small roots are often needed for diagnosis and they may be left behind if plants are pulled rather than dug.

• If only part of a plant is collected, such as detached leaves or branches, describe the symptoms and location of affected parts clearly (e.g., young vs. older leaves, one side of plant, etc.).

• Choose several plants showing a range of symptoms, especially those in the early stages of the problem. Diagnosis may not be possible if plants are completely dead.

• Include pictures of the problem area whenever possible.

• Do not expose samples to extreme heat or cold (such as leaving them inside a vehicle) and collect samples early in the week to avoid holding them over the weekend.

Submitting a Sample

Once samples have been collected properly, deliver them to your local county Extension office as soon after collection as possible. Be prepared to complete a Plant Disease Identification Form with the information gathered from the site. In many cases, the local Extension agent can diagnose the problem on site. If necessary, the Extension agent or Extension staff assistant will ship samples to the Plant Disease Diagnostic Laboratory, following these general guidelines:

Specific Instructions for Collecting Samples

Seedlings (all types)

Select plants showing all stages of the problem, including some in early stages of disease development.

Collect at least 10 to 12 seedlings, if possible, since they tend to deteriorate quickly. Dig up plants carefully to avoid damage to roots and leave soil attached to roots.

Place in plastic bag. Soil should be moist but not saturated. Never add wet paper towels.

Note: Since seedlings are fragile, you may decide to include a few extra plants with soil washed off. Place these in a separate bag.

Whole plants (Field & row crops, Garden plants, Ornamental plants, trees & shrubs, Container‐grown plants

Select plants showing all stages of the problem, including some in early stages of disease development. Include healthy plants for comparison if possible.

Carefully dig up plants (do not pull). Dig deeply enough to include the entire root system.

Secure or tie off root ball in a plastic bag, so that foliage remains soil‐free. For container‐grown plants, either leave plants in the pot or remove them from it, but secure the root ball in a plastic bag.

Grasses (whole plants) (Pasture grasses & small grains, Turfgrass)

Carefully dig up a clump of plants (do not pull). Dig deeply enough to include the whole root system. Leave soil around the roots. Try to include both healthy and affected plants in the sample.

Secure or tie off root ball in a plastic bag, so that foliage remains soil‐free.

Leaves only (Field & row crops, Garden plants, Ornamental plants, trees & shrubs)

Collect multiple leaves that best represent problem.

Twigs, Branches (Trees and shrubs)

Follow dead branches back until live tissue is found and collect well below the dead portion. Include any cankers.

Trunk (Trees and shrubs)

Look for cankers, wounds or oozing areas. If tree is to be removed, cut sections of the trunk. If tree is still standing (no plans to remove), cut small pieces of bark and  wood from the outer margin of a canker or diseased area. Bark/wood samples should be at least ½ to 1” in size. 

Roots (Trees and shrubs, Container‐grown plants)

If the entire plant cannot be removed, root samples may be submitted along with branch samples. Carefully dig up segments of roots with soil intact (do not pull). Be sure roots are collected from the affected tree or shrub and not from understory plants. Put roots along with any attached soil in a plastic bag.

Note: If the entire tree or shrub is to be removed, collect the whole root ball with the collar (base of stem) attached. This is a better sample than root segments only.

Fruits, vegetables, nuts & tubers

Select those showing the earliest signs of decay. Severely decayed material will not be usable.

Gently dry the sample so that it is free of surface moisture.

Mushrooms for Identification

Select several at different stages of maturity when possible.

Dig up specimen to include any below‐ground structures.

Growers should contact their county Extension office if they have questions regarding the best type of sample to submit. Remember that delays in diagnosis occur when improperly collected and/or packaged samples are submitted for diagnosis.

Source: Beale, J.W., Kennedy, B.S., Long, S.J., & Guthier, N. W. (2014) Submitting Plant Specimens for Disease Diagnosis PPFS-GEN-09. University of Kentucky, Plant Pathology Extension.

Taking Soil Test Samples (please read the entire information)

The most important part of making fertilizer recommendations is collecting a good, representative soil sample. Soil test results and fertilizer recommendations are based solely on the few ounces of soil submitted to the laboratory for analysis. These few ounces can represent several million pounds of soil in the field. If this sample does not reflect actual soil conditions, the results can be misleading and lead to costly over- or under-fertilization. It is necessary to make sure that the soil sample sent to the laboratory accurately represents the area sampled.

Sample Timing

Soil samples can be collected through much of the year, although fall (September to December) or spring (February to April) are the best times. Fall sampling will often result in a faster return of results and recommendations. Fall sampling will also allow the grower time to have the fertilizer applied well before planting the next crop. However, fall sampling results in lower pH and soil test K levels when conditions are dry. In either case, a field should always be sampled the same time of the year in order to make historical comparisons.

Most fields should be sampled every three to four years. High-value crops, such as tobacco, commercial horticultural crops, alfalfa, red clover, and corn silage, should be sampled annually so that plant nutrient levels can be monitored more closely. Application of manure can change soil test phosphorus, potassium, and zinc levels dramatically, so sampling manured fields each year is also recommended.

Tools You Need

A soil probe, auger, garden trowel, or a spade and knife are all the tools you need to take the individual cores that will make up the “field” sample. You will also need a clean, dry, plastic bucket to collect and mix the sample cores. Be sure not to use galvanized or rubber buckets because they will contaminate the sample with zinc. Soil sample boxes or bags and information forms for submitting samples are available at all county Extension offices or you can place the soil in any type of clean container for transport to the Extension Office.

Collecting Field Crop Samples

An individual sample should represent no more than 20 acres except when soils, past management, and cropping history are quite uniform. The most representative sample can be obtained from a large field by sampling smaller areas on the basis of soil type, cropping history, erosion, or past management practices. For example, a portion of a field may have a history of manure application or tobacco production while the other part does not. Phosphorus and potassium levels will likely be higher in these areas, causing the rest of the field to be under-fertilized if the field is sampled as one unit. It is much better to collect separate samples from these areas because their nutrient requirements are likely quite different from the rest of the field. If a few years of yield maps are available, these can help identify areas of the field that should be sampled separately. Soil sampling can also be used to “troubleshoot” areas of the field that are visually different or are consistently low yielding when compared to the rest of the field. Take a sample both from the poor growing area and adjacent areas of good growth. Keep good records indicating where each sample was taken.

Collect at least 10 soil cores for small areas and up to 30 cores for larger fields. Take the soil cores randomly throughout the sampling area and place them in the bucket. Do not sample:

• back furrows or dead furrows,

• old fencerows,

• areas used for manure or hay storage and livestock feeding, and

• areas where lime has been piled in the past.

Grid Soil Sampling

With new advances in agriculture and the availability of global positioning satellites, it is now possible to divide a field into smaller units or grid cells that can be sampled individually. Soil test results from each grid can be used to prepare nutrient availability maps of fields. Variable-rate fertilizer and lime applications are then based on these maps. Grid soil sampling and prescription fertilizer maps may result in more accurate recommendations and may lead to greater efficiency in fertilizer use.

Currently the industry standard grid size is 2.5 acres, but Kentucky research shows that variability within areas as small as one acre can be as great as the variability within the entire field. Because soil variability is so high, it is important to treat each grid cell as a field. At least 10 random samples should be collected across the entire grid cell, rather than a few cores from the center of the grid. Grid sampling can be a good way to identify old field boundaries or parts of fields that have had different management in the past if they are unknown to the current producer.

This intensive sampling is costly, and limited Kentucky research has not shown a predictable economic benefit when it is compared to the current recommended method of sampling according to soil type, past history, or past management zones.

Sampling after Banded Fertilizer Applications

Care must be taken when sampling no-till fields that have had fertilizer applied in bands rather than broadcast. Phosphorus, potassium, and zinc are immobile in the soil and remain in the concentrated band for several years after application. If these bands are completely avoided during sampling, soil test results will be lower than “actual,” leading to over-fertilization. If bands are included too often, soil test results will be higher than “actual,” causing an underestimation of fertilizer needs for the crop.

When the location of the bands is known, it is best to sample in the band one time for every 20 cores taken. If the location of the band is unknown, it is best to take pairs of random samples.

The first core is completely random, and the second core is taken one-half the band spacing distance in a direction perpendicular to the band direction. For example, if banded fertilizer was applied on 30-inch spacing, the first core would be randomly selected, and the second sample would be taken 15 inches away (perpendicular to the direction of the band). This process would be repeated at least 10 times in a small field and up to 30 times in a larger field. The more cores that are collected, the more closely the sample will represent “actual” field conditions.

Collecting Lawn or Garden Samples

Sample gardens, lawns, and landscaped areas separately. Collect cores randomly from each area. The area to sample for trees includes the soil below the width of the tree. For shrubs, flower beds, and gardens, sample just the soil where the plants are growing. You should sample problem areas and areas with shrubs, trees, or flower beds separately from other turf or lawn areas. Do not sample:

• compost areas,

• under the drip-line of trees, and

• close to driveways or streets.

Sample Depth

One commonly overlooked component of soil sampling is the depth of soil to be tested. Most plant nutrients accumulate at the soil surface. This nutrient stratification is a result of past broadcast fertilizer applications and decomposition of plant residue on the soil surface. Because there is a higher concentration of nutrients on the soil surface, soil test values usually go down as the sample depth is increased. To obtain accurate and consistent (between different years) results, samples must be taken to the following depths for these areas:

Tilled Areas—Take soil cores to the depth of the tillage operation (usually 6 to 8 inches).

Non- or Reduced-Tilled Areas—Take soil cores to a depth of 3 to 4 inches for pastures, no-till planting (where fertilizer or lime remains on the soil surface), and minimum-till planting (where fertilizer is incorporated only in the surface 1 to 2 inches).

Lawns and Turfgrasses—Collect soil cores to a depth of 3 to 4 inches.

Sample Preparation

After all cores for an individual sample are collected and placed in the bucket, crush the soil material and mix the sample thoroughly. Allow the sample to air dry in an open space free from contamination. Do not dry the sample in an oven or at an abnormally high temperature. Fill a clean container with approximately two cups of soil.

It is not necessary to have forms completed when samples are submitted at the Extension Office. Below is an example of the necessary forms you will be completing when submitting your soil sample. Sampling and preparing the soil for submission is only half of the process. The other equally important part is filling out a sample information sheet so that the desired crop, tillage, and other information can be considered when making the fertilizer recommendation. The sample information sheet contains all the important information required to provide accurate lime and fertilizer recommendations. Sample information sheets for the University of Kentucky Soil Testing Laboratory can be found at www.rs.uky.edu

The types of forms available are the:

• agricultural form,

• home lawn and garden form, and

• commercial horticulture form.

Each form asks for primary and alternative crops, as well as other background information. The amount of background information needed depends on the crop to be grown.

It is very important to complete the pertinent sections of the sample information form. This will assure that you receive the most accurate fertilizer recommendations possible. Soil samples should be taken to your county Extension office; from there they will be sent to the UK Soil Testing Laboratory. Results and recommendations will be e-mailed to the county office usually within 10-14 working days of submission.

Please note: There is a charge of $9.00 per sample for routine test. Additional charges for more specialized testing-call for pricing. Please have the exact cash amount or a check. We do not keep change in the office.

https://publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/agr-16


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Jamie A. Dockery

Extension Agent, Horticulture

(859) 257-5582 jamie.dockery@uky.edu Fayette County Extension Office 1140 Harry Sykes Way, Lexington, Kentucky 40504

Reena Martin

Extension Agent, Horticulture

(859) 257-5582 reena.martin@uky.edu Fayette County Extension Office 1140 Harry Sykes Way, Lexington, Kentucky 40504

Blair Ripley

Extension Assistant, Horticulture

(859) 257-5582 blair.ripley@uky.edu Fayette County Extension Office 1140 Harry Sykes Way, Lexington, Kentucky 40504

Contact Information

1140 Harry Sykes Way Lexington, KY 40504-1172

(859) 257-5582

fayette.ext@uky.edu